Provincial Capitol Lagoon, Bacolod City

 The Provincial Capitol and its adjacent lagoon (simply called the Lagoon), is one of the most splendid of all provincial capitols in the Philippines. Even the famous architect, Leandro Locsin calls it the most beautiful capitol because of its symmetry and layout. Accentuated by the cool waters of the lagoon, this complex is made more stunning during sunset when the sun strikes its golden rays to the water and when the orange glow fills the 2nd floor gallery of the Capitol.

History showed that the building was planned by Daniel Burnham and designed by Juan Arellano.  The entire building took a decade to be built during the prewar years and this was done in the Neo-Classical style of architecture as favored by our American colonial masters. The four statues adorning the area above the Corinthian columns were attributed to Italian artist Francesco Monti.

The two concrete carabao statues straddle the north-south pole of the Lagoon. The Northern statue which envisaged a 30's coiffed Filipina sidling with a carabao is attributed to Monti since he has an exact small replica of the said statue at the UP Los Banos School of Agriculture. The Southern statue meanwhile sports a nude male pulling a carabao, which is attributed to Arellano (but I am not sure if Mapua had a hand in this).

Currently, the capitol houses the offices of the governor while the Lagoon serves as a recreational park for the populace.

San Sebastian Cathedral, Bacolod City

Scenes from an afternoon tour at the San Sebastian Cathedral....

Jacopo Kebabs & Steaks, Bacolod City

The hallmark of a great restaurant lies in its ability to sustain the interest and curiosity of its customers resulting in a strong patron-purveyor relationship as manifested by having a constant supply of satisfied regulars. So long as you keep your customers happy with your 1) consistent food quality, 2) consistent portions, and 3) excellent service, then the factor of price becomes secondary. Patrons will continue to pay for your food if they’re happy; they shall seek you out no matter how far is the distance.

This is true with Jacopo Kebabs & Steaks, a small shophouse-sized restaurant in Mandalagan tucked behind the generator of the building across Robinson’s Bacolod Mall (see photo for details) serving fantastic Mediterranean cuisine. They have been pleasing our palates ever since they opened and they have not failed us yet.

The restaurant features warm American Moderne design with wooden tables and steel chairs embellished with muted Mediterranean kitsch suffused with the warm tangerine glow of their walls. What this means I have no idea but it sounds sophisticated and architectural. But people go here not to admire the cool interiors but to eat, taste and savor.

When we go here, we prefer taking the seats at the mezzanine floor above where we can defile the place with our chatter. And the cushioned seats and pillows help too.

Now, look at the menu (see photos). Can you see how reasonable their prices are? That’s their main draw. If only they would follow the Principles of Greenbeltsian Tariffs as espoused in Makati, then they can be sure to increase their profits while scaring off probably 99% of Negrense customers. Hence, putting an exorbitant price on their menu will mean that instead of having weekly or daily regulars coming in to try out their dishes, it would become monthly or annual regulars instead. This is why Negrenses are grateful to have Jacopo in their midst. And we can also thank our lucky stars to Rico Cajili, the restauranteur behind this and other well-trodden Bacolod restos such as Chicken House, Pepe’s and Bistro Negrense.

Click me!

Click me!

Back to the menu. Read the appetizers. Now feel that quick gush of your saliva from your Stensen’s and Wharton’s ducts as it then lubriciously coats your entire mouth. Read the Entrees. Can you feel your incisors and molars tingling with excitement that any more literary stimulus will drive you to chomp on your seatmate’s thigh?

No? Then let me give you a bit more push: I would recommend their Chicken samosas- such luscious morsels of curried chicken and potatoes drizzled with mango chutney. They’re quite heavy on the stomach but light on the pocket.  Care to try some Feta Cheese & Spinach Ravioli? You'll swoon as if you’re in some Greenbeltsian restaurant in where else but in Greenbelt. The silkiness of the cream and the slight herby taste of spinach makes it stellar.   However, the one thing that keeps us coming back for more is their Pita Platter: Head-size pita bread that comes  with an assortment of 3 flavorful dips (which we sinfully mix and match): babaganoush, chili con carne (not this time though), and hummus.  They are creamy and delicious. Perfect to start your meal.

The entrees of Jacopo form the basis of their existence. The kebabs are to die for.  Both lamb & Angus beef kebabs are soft and well-seasoned and are paired with a creamy horseradish-garlic sauce.  Mr. Cajili recommends the steaks which I totally agree. Buttery soft and juicy themselves, they come with brown pepper gravy. The taste spectrum simply explodes.   A friend of mine who tried their St. Patrick steak said that he can’t stop thinking of it even the next day.  It was the kind of steak he was looking for. Well, for something less than P200, I can see why. 

We tried the Mediterranean Grilled Chicken (P149) and it was perfect for a "salaryless" weekend.  Grilled yet juicy inside, the chicken was well seasoned with herbs (rosemary? basil? tarragon?) and was  paired with luscious hummus and yellow saffron rice and a nice tart salsa of cucumber and tomatoes.  More than the chicken, you’ll be amazed too by the size of your plate. They’re huge- enough to hold your head if in case it gets decapitated.  So far, we’ve tried their Lamb Casserole and Curry dishes and they’re good, but I would rather go for the steaks. Each time we eat here, it's always a happy experience.

One quip we have about Jacopo is the lack of desserts. No yoghurt ice cream. No Baklavas. Brazos and Sans Rival are too plain for this place.  I feel they deserve better. Perhaps they want to focus more on the main stuff but it would be great if there’s something to round it off with.  Hmm. Strong Turkish coffee, perhaps?

All in all, a very satisfying dining experience.  Recommended? Yes, for the sheer pleasure of eating a cuisine other than Chicken Inasal here in Bacolod City.  Jacopo is one restaurant you hope not to disappear.

Jacopo Steaks & Kebabs
722 Metropolis Tower, Lacson Street, Mandalagan
Bacolod City, Philippines

Calea at Balay Quince, Bacolod City

Updated from my previous blogsite:

One of the most hallowed institutions of gastronomic delights in this fair city is Calea. The place well-known to all and Red Ribbon (which is the darling among other provincial towns) will even attest to the prowess and sheer tenacity of this dessert place. Only during force majeure will Calea fall. (A matchstick and a can of petrol will do the trick!) In a nutshell, because of its strict quality and generous adequate quantity, Calea will forever increase the diabetic curve of local Negrenses. Pass me the insulin will you.

Calea, hopefully, will not be beholden to the Sodom & Gomorrah called Manila when it tries to tempt our cakeshop with the promise of hyperbolic profits. I'm glad that instead of taking the bait and let Manileños have their cake too, Calea is contented to sit and relax and see its three shops here churn centavos in profits. At least this will ultimately force Manileños to order stuff provincially rather than to have everything available at their beck and call.

Their main shop sits at the ground floor of Balay Quince (as in the number, not the fruit), a Mondrian-inspired arcade similar in structure and taste to Greenbelt albeit much much smaller. You can find it at the corner of 15th Street and Lacson, and any tourist will appreciate that it is in front of L'Fisher Hotel rather than on the ally of 14th street, its previous location. Other branches are inside Robinson's Mall and at Eastblock. They close until 10pm weekdays while 11pm weekends.

But the question remains, what makes Calea very special?

1. Even though they are located in the heart of this provincial nest of vipers, Calea is able to make cakes worthy of Nigella Lawson with its ingredients imported all the way from the cowtits of Bavaria. Take for instance their White Chocolate Cheesecake. It's rich and sinfully so. Its decadence is improved by a spoonful of tart raspberry puree. Where in Manila can you find such treat for only P60 P85? Even Sugarhouse cannot afford such luxury.

2. The cakes abound in such variety and uniqueness that each is worthy of a blog entry. (Only in Bacolod will you find the racist dessert called Black Sambo which is simply chocolate-vanilla layered pannacotta.) Calea is not stuck with the usual regimen of Chocolate cake and Chocolate Crinkles and Blueberry Cheesecake that beset Manila bakeshops. Each cake is filled with soul and people who have tasted Calea will always point out how "uncommercial" the taste is. For instance their Blueberry Cheesecake are like the ones being made in NYC (less gelatin) and the crust! the crust! How to describe it? A buttery concoction of oatmeal crunch granola instead of the usual graham crust being peddled in Starbucks and Cheesecake Factory. They even have a good selection of ice cream cakes like their orgasmic Marshmallow pie and their Vanilla ice cream pie that has a delicious peanut-butter granola base.

3. The ambience is full of muted sophistication. Minimal without being sterile, simple but full of joie de vivre. The beauty is in the details. Calea has the same fantastic interiors concept as any high-end pastry shop in New York. It tends to become the place to see and be seen. Unlike some metropolitan pastry shops that take their inspiration from a Grimm's Fairy Tale or others who espouse an American-style Starbucksy kind of interiors (totally uninspired), Calea is in a class of its own.

4. They serve fantastic coffee. I don't know what blend or what style (perhaps human kopi luwak?) but their White Chocolate Capuccino is far better than Starbucks'. And their milkshakes are pure ambrosia.

5. The price! Their most expensive cake would be around P60-65 P90. Most cheesecakes are in the P50s P80s range and the Butter pecan slice about P64 P90. After 10 years, I have seen their prices increased 100% but it is still relatively inexpensive when you compare it to similar cakes in Manila. Prices are updated to reflect 2011-13 cost of living.

Bon apetit!

Old Pala-Pala, Bacolod City

In Bacolod there are two Pala-palas. One is the original "bagsakan" or market for all things fishy while the other is the upscale version of the original (for upscale people). This one is the Old pala-pala, the original down-to-earth rubbing-elbows-with-the-masses stretch of mom-&-pop restaurants that is located 200 meters far down from the Capitol Lagoon.

These places are the humble equivalents of Manila's Dampa where patrons buy fish from the market and bring them to the restos for cooking. There's another option tho: the waitresses will buy them for you from the resto itself, thus, no need to go down and dirty and haggle until you're wet with sweat.

As you enter one of these restos, Hyksos Tulahan in our case, you will be greeted with monobloc plastic chairs and formica tables, the walls built of bamboo and the far on the corner, the ubiquitous his-&-hers sinks so that after a heady round of finger-licking shrimps you can wash down the oil that clings to your fingers.

People DO not go to Old Pala-pala for the ambience. They come here for the delicious food and the relatively cheap prices. You shall never earn any brownie point bringing your lover here, unless that person is a foodie too.

So what to order? Everything so far is delicious, filling and full of umami flavors. Each morsel of scallops cooked with butter and garlic is like eating heaven. The shrimps cooked in a sweet garlic sauce send your eyelids into a flutter. Hyksos' calamares is superb and it goes well some Thousand Island dressing (but my home-cooked calamares is still the best). But the best fare you'll try here is the fish: blue marlin slices cooked in soy and calamansi juice and then grilled becomes ambrosia here on earth. The succulent meat simply melts in your mouth like butter. Not to be outdone is their grilled Tanguigue which is butter soft with a more stronger flavor. Because these slices are fresh, you can appreciate the sweet flavor of the fish. Couple these dishes with garlic rice and a nice cold Coke is the perfect way to round off the night's meal.

It's good if you're a party of three or more because it will make the whole experience cheap. For us, the bill totaled ~P250 per person which is respectably affordable. So, is it worth it? A definite YES!

Hyksos Tulahan @ Old Pala-pala
Take the Banago-Libertad jeep. Or you can go down the 6th st. or at the Capitol Lagoon and take a Trisikad/Tricycle (P15-20) and tell them you wan't to go to the Old Pala-pala.

Budget: P150-350 per head

Bo's Coffee Kiosk, SM Bacolod

Bo's Coffee (of Bo's Coffee Club fame) is my choice of gourmet coffee & fraps in this City of Smiles.  Why?

1. Firstly, Starbucks' Frappucinos have that overpowering milky flavor coming to the fore. Their full cream milk has that nauseating flavor of heavy cream that makes it too buttery for anyone's taste.  Haven't tried their soy based drinks. Meh.

2. I love the fact that Bo's coffee doesn't not have the gritty consistency unlike those of Starbucks. The coffee of the latter is not as well blended as Bo's with the icy crushed mush floating to the top while the melted elements settle at the bottom. Logical you say? Not if after three sips you begin to experience icy grittiness just like an icebreaker plowing into an Arctic sea.  Bo's on the other hand has that consistent icy creaminess which tells you that the coffee, the ice and the milk have magnificently commingled with each other with the coffee dominating the taste notes.  And that consistency is true even when you get to the cream on top.

The first time I tasted Bo's was in Mactan Airport and I was a convert ever since. Theirs is my mark of quality. Yum!

2.  Starbucks coffee has that sour-bitter aftertaste in each of their coffee-based drinks.  The blended ones not so, but still, it has that subtle sourish bitter taste that doesn't quite give you the satisfaction of blowing off $5 on coffee. Is it the roasting process or the storage, I do not know.  As for Bo's (especially their White Mocha), sip after sip will not give you those bitter notes and yet the aroma of coffee beans judiciously roasted has been perfectly partnered with the creaminess of the drink.  Hence, the full-bodied aroma and taste without the unnecessary hitches.

Thus, blended creamy consistency + deep rich roasted bean flavor - bitter aftertaste = perfect coffee for the movies... (FYI, I paid for all my coffees when writing this review.)

It's located at the south wing of SM Bacolod near Chowking & Booksale...

New Government Center, Bacolod City

The Bacolod City New Government Center is stunning during night. It's the favorite spot for joggers and promenaders day and night who treat this plot of greenness as an alternative to the Provincial Capitol Lagoon. The whole story can be read here:

http://www.bacolodcity.gov.ph/newgovtcenter.htm

I love the textural minimalism of the whole structure. It has that local canefield sophistication that's restrained and yet functional- which depends really on the budget.  Even the lobby chandelier is muted in its details.  It may be vogue during the decade of which this was built, but I wonder how it shall be critiqued ten to twenty years from now. 

Take note, this was taken around 10 p.m. on a weekday. This has become a local chill area for people living the the eastern part of Bacolod.  Though I am glad that such areas have expanded during the last two decades, I am appalled by the rate, planning and even non-existence of sound urban planning of this area.

Why? There is no other route system or street planning that directly traverses this area save for the Circumferential road.  Twenty years from now, this will become a gridlock of cars, tricycles and cane trucks as each must navigate thru this single geographical lifeline.  Unless the proprietors of Villa Angela would prefer to donate their other pieces of land for street development, soon, this area will become a nightmare.  Of course, why in the first place would they choose to donate this land to the city if not to directly boost the land values of their already existing plots.  Which is why all along the Circumferential road you shall see an already cluttered, ramshackle, and blightful array of sundry stores, bbq kiosks and eateries contributing to the chaos and the traffic.  Yes Virginia, it's urban planning at its finest.

Even the calm lapping of the center's fountain betray the chaos that lurk 100 meters from the road.

Good Friday, Bago City, Negros Occ.

The great thing about provincial towns like Bago City (yes, this city is still a town) is how they become repositories of old Filipino Catholic rituals, preserving them, continually cherishing the age-old traditions that the Spanish have handed down to its natives. No Pasyon rap here or Visita Iglesia via Internet either. It's wonderful in a museum kind of way.

The ritual starts when the sun is nearing its final rest where everyone is assembled at the starting point. Families, couples, children, and friends walk along with the nearest processional float which usually depicts a scene during the Crucifixion of Christ- all the way from the Agony in the Garden to the Santo Intierro.

So, Good Friday is the day when most of the processions are done, and also the day when the Luzon-centric real-time crucifixions are held which I believe do not reflect real Christian values like PENITENCE! You mean I can go on killing, raping, dealing in drugs and come holy week, my sins are all absolved when I get to hang on the cross?

I love the pomp and pageantry of Philippine folk Catholicism even if the basis for some of it borders already on idolatry (e.g. the belief that wiping your snot-filled handkerchief on the Black Nazarene will do miracles, the tradition of dressing up the Sto. Nino in different near-sacrilegious forms of clothing). The atmosphere of piety is heavy and palpable during this day that you cannot help but be swept into it.

Children are especially impressed by this tradition.  And a huge percentage of those in procession are below twenty and still virgin.

Some would simply stay on the roadside and light candles...

The Scourging at the Pillar scene.... When the procession circuits the city, it then returns to the church...