Old Pala-Pala, Bacolod City

In Bacolod there are two Pala-palas. One is the original "bagsakan" or market for all things fishy while the other is the upscale version of the original (for upscale people). This one is the Old pala-pala, the original down-to-earth rubbing-elbows-with-the-masses stretch of mom-&-pop restaurants that is located 200 meters far down from the Capitol Lagoon.

These places are the humble equivalents of Manila's Dampa where patrons buy fish from the market and bring them to the restos for cooking. There's another option tho: the waitresses will buy them for you from the resto itself, thus, no need to go down and dirty and haggle until you're wet with sweat.

As you enter one of these restos, Hyksos Tulahan in our case, you will be greeted with monobloc plastic chairs and formica tables, the walls built of bamboo and the far on the corner, the ubiquitous his-&-hers sinks so that after a heady round of finger-licking shrimps you can wash down the oil that clings to your fingers.

People DO not go to Old Pala-pala for the ambience. They come here for the delicious food and the relatively cheap prices. You shall never earn any brownie point bringing your lover here, unless that person is a foodie too.

So what to order? Everything so far is delicious, filling and full of umami flavors. Each morsel of scallops cooked with butter and garlic is like eating heaven. The shrimps cooked in a sweet garlic sauce send your eyelids into a flutter. Hyksos' calamares is superb and it goes well some Thousand Island dressing (but my home-cooked calamares is still the best). But the best fare you'll try here is the fish: blue marlin slices cooked in soy and calamansi juice and then grilled becomes ambrosia here on earth. The succulent meat simply melts in your mouth like butter. Not to be outdone is their grilled Tanguigue which is butter soft with a more stronger flavor. Because these slices are fresh, you can appreciate the sweet flavor of the fish. Couple these dishes with garlic rice and a nice cold Coke is the perfect way to round off the night's meal.

It's good if you're a party of three or more because it will make the whole experience cheap. For us, the bill totaled ~P250 per person which is respectably affordable. So, is it worth it? A definite YES!

Hyksos Tulahan @ Old Pala-pala
Take the Banago-Libertad jeep. Or you can go down the 6th st. or at the Capitol Lagoon and take a Trisikad/Tricycle (P15-20) and tell them you wan't to go to the Old Pala-pala.

Budget: P150-350 per head

Bo's Coffee Kiosk, SM Bacolod

Bo's Coffee (of Bo's Coffee Club fame) is my choice of gourmet coffee & fraps in this City of Smiles.  Why?

1. Firstly, Starbucks' Frappucinos have that overpowering milky flavor coming to the fore. Their full cream milk has that nauseating flavor of heavy cream that makes it too buttery for anyone's taste.  Haven't tried their soy based drinks. Meh.

2. I love the fact that Bo's coffee doesn't not have the gritty consistency unlike those of Starbucks. The coffee of the latter is not as well blended as Bo's with the icy crushed mush floating to the top while the melted elements settle at the bottom. Logical you say? Not if after three sips you begin to experience icy grittiness just like an icebreaker plowing into an Arctic sea.  Bo's on the other hand has that consistent icy creaminess which tells you that the coffee, the ice and the milk have magnificently commingled with each other with the coffee dominating the taste notes.  And that consistency is true even when you get to the cream on top.

The first time I tasted Bo's was in Mactan Airport and I was a convert ever since. Theirs is my mark of quality. Yum!

2.  Starbucks coffee has that sour-bitter aftertaste in each of their coffee-based drinks.  The blended ones not so, but still, it has that subtle sourish bitter taste that doesn't quite give you the satisfaction of blowing off $5 on coffee. Is it the roasting process or the storage, I do not know.  As for Bo's (especially their White Mocha), sip after sip will not give you those bitter notes and yet the aroma of coffee beans judiciously roasted has been perfectly partnered with the creaminess of the drink.  Hence, the full-bodied aroma and taste without the unnecessary hitches.

Thus, blended creamy consistency + deep rich roasted bean flavor - bitter aftertaste = perfect coffee for the movies... (FYI, I paid for all my coffees when writing this review.)

It's located at the south wing of SM Bacolod near Chowking & Booksale...

New Government Center, Bacolod City

The Bacolod City New Government Center is stunning during night. It's the favorite spot for joggers and promenaders day and night who treat this plot of greenness as an alternative to the Provincial Capitol Lagoon. The whole story can be read here:

http://www.bacolodcity.gov.ph/newgovtcenter.htm

I love the textural minimalism of the whole structure. It has that local canefield sophistication that's restrained and yet functional- which depends really on the budget.  Even the lobby chandelier is muted in its details.  It may be vogue during the decade of which this was built, but I wonder how it shall be critiqued ten to twenty years from now. 

Take note, this was taken around 10 p.m. on a weekday. This has become a local chill area for people living the the eastern part of Bacolod.  Though I am glad that such areas have expanded during the last two decades, I am appalled by the rate, planning and even non-existence of sound urban planning of this area.

Why? There is no other route system or street planning that directly traverses this area save for the Circumferential road.  Twenty years from now, this will become a gridlock of cars, tricycles and cane trucks as each must navigate thru this single geographical lifeline.  Unless the proprietors of Villa Angela would prefer to donate their other pieces of land for street development, soon, this area will become a nightmare.  Of course, why in the first place would they choose to donate this land to the city if not to directly boost the land values of their already existing plots.  Which is why all along the Circumferential road you shall see an already cluttered, ramshackle, and blightful array of sundry stores, bbq kiosks and eateries contributing to the chaos and the traffic.  Yes Virginia, it's urban planning at its finest.

Even the calm lapping of the center's fountain betray the chaos that lurk 100 meters from the road.

Good Friday, Bago City, Negros Occ.

The great thing about provincial towns like Bago City (yes, this city is still a town) is how they become repositories of old Filipino Catholic rituals, preserving them, continually cherishing the age-old traditions that the Spanish have handed down to its natives. No Pasyon rap here or Visita Iglesia via Internet either. It's wonderful in a museum kind of way.

The ritual starts when the sun is nearing its final rest where everyone is assembled at the starting point. Families, couples, children, and friends walk along with the nearest processional float which usually depicts a scene during the Crucifixion of Christ- all the way from the Agony in the Garden to the Santo Intierro.

So, Good Friday is the day when most of the processions are done, and also the day when the Luzon-centric real-time crucifixions are held which I believe do not reflect real Christian values like PENITENCE! You mean I can go on killing, raping, dealing in drugs and come holy week, my sins are all absolved when I get to hang on the cross?

I love the pomp and pageantry of Philippine folk Catholicism even if the basis for some of it borders already on idolatry (e.g. the belief that wiping your snot-filled handkerchief on the Black Nazarene will do miracles, the tradition of dressing up the Sto. Nino in different near-sacrilegious forms of clothing). The atmosphere of piety is heavy and palpable during this day that you cannot help but be swept into it.

Children are especially impressed by this tradition.  And a huge percentage of those in procession are below twenty and still virgin.

Some would simply stay on the roadside and light candles...

The Scourging at the Pillar scene.... When the procession circuits the city, it then returns to the church...

Negros Pastoralia

As we headed home from the day's medical mission in Toboso, we were treated to the raw pastoral beauty of Negros Island, the kind that arrests you on your tracks, the type that makes you linger for more, the one that makes you want to build a luxurious Balinese house that overhangs the mountainside complete with a stone infinity pool and a jacuzzi.

going home... 4pm..

It's a house on a hill...

 Even the crumbling colonial buildings of Silay were charming enough during dusk.

Dulce Gatas of Negros & Bacolod

Dulce Gatas or Dulce de Gatas. This is known as Dulce de Leche among Latin American countries like Argentina and also as Caramel spread or Milk Jam in Europe. Dulce Gatas is a delectable dessert in Negros made famous by the artisanal kitchens of Silay City with El Ideal Bakery coming to the fore.

To produce dulce gatas, fresh carabao's milk and muscovado sugar are cooked together in a copper pot which is then reduced to a caramel consistency. It is then poured into Tupperware-like pots or plastic canisters and is immediately cooled at room temperature. It's eaten by spooning the sticky mess and licking it like crazy. If stored inside a fridge, dulce gatas stays for about two weeks but due to the insistent urge to dig in, it doesn't stay for more than a week.



The taste of which is caramelly sweet and decadent. As for the texture is soft, somewhat grainy from all the small curdled milk inside and it is slightly oily. It literally sticks on the tongue. It's like that taste of burnt sugar or perhaps caramel but with a more "going-down-&-going-up" flavor.

Usually, the best way to eat this heavenly dessert is to take a tablespoonful or two right after dinner. This will take the "umay" of the meal away, thus, leaving you somewhat in a sugar high. To eat it in one sitting is a recipe for sudden death, so it is best to take it moderately.

You can find this in select restaurants like Pendy's and El Ideal, and pasalubong centers like Bong-bong's and ANP Showroom. So far the best brand I've tried is not Kat-kat's but El Ideal's.

Price range: P120-240 ($2.60-5.20)

SODAM Korean Restaurant, Bacolod

 Bacolod natives, when it comes to culinary experiences, are not an adventurous lot. They are fickle when it comes to nouvelle cuisine, they are wary of ethnic foods and they have this kind of herd mentality when it comes to patronizing restaurants. This is perhaps why some hole-in-the-wall restaurants thrive despite being obscure and why some restaurants situated on the main drag fold after a few months.

The factor in Bacolod which can make or break a business is “word of mouth.” No flashy advertizing needed, just plain small-town grapevine method. Locals, especially the older bunch, won’t touch weird non-local food unless some friend, colleague or relative swears by it and recommends it enthusiastically. This has resulted in a food society built on reputation, honor, and group mentality. Such nuance had negatively affected reputable businesses in the past such as Bo’s Coffee Club & Krua Thai in Sorrento, Gerry’s Grill in Lacson, and Namaste Indian Restaurant in Goldenfields while propping up hard-to-find eateries such as Lord Byron’s Ribs, Tiyo Sid’s Grilled Burgers, Pamilya Grill in Eroreco (Fake Bob’s) and now… SODAM Korean Restaurant.

Sodam Korean Restaurant is a relatively quaint hole-in-the-wall chucked along Lacson Street. It’s beside Regency Inn and lies between San Antonio Abad and Lupit Churches. It’s better to take the car though, if not, a taxi will do.

Upon entering the newly decorated resto, your eyes will have to adjust at the luridly sanguinous walls, better to cloak the near-monopoly color of red chilies that will inevitably share your dining table. The furniture is typical Korean in style and was comfortable enough for a three hour fire fest.

As for the food, they are delicious as they are reasonably priced. For a full meal, one would need to shell out about ~P300 ($7.50) as we had done so but you will leave the restaurant stuffed to the gills. Their menu is adequate with English translations and a photo of each dish for those who are even English-impaired. Prices range from P100 to P600, but in our case, a whole sizzling platter of Osam Bulgogi cost about P350, enough to feed 4-5 people. Although the Bulgogi’s reddish color was a portent of hot things to come, it was tempered by the sweetness of the dish and the liters of free mineral water that the waitresses were happy to refill. Remarkably, our group survived the deliciousness of this dish that we welcomed the four other dishes with weak smiles and nervous laughs. There was an omelet with 20% chilies by dry weight, a sweet noodle dish that was deceptively hot, Bibimbap which was one of the best I’ve tried and an inexpensive P100 Korean roll (very filling).

What I do appreciate about Sodam is how the owner gave us free stuff. FREE!! First that was given was appetizers of kimchi and pickled radish (no brainer here), then the free softdrinks (yes!), then the free vegetable omelet in a skillet type of dish, and while we were sweating it out, we were given a bowl of miso-like soup.

Our friend J was ecstatic when the bowl of soup was placed in front of him saying that this was the only dish that doesn’t looked hot. Much to his chagrin, when he spooned some of the soup, a whole red chili popped up winking at him.

“Hello Clarisse,” he muttered, his eyes boring into the smiling chili pepper.

As each bite passed down our throats, we sweated bullets and yet, we can’t stop from stuffing ourselves into stupor. By the end of the meal, everything was wiped out. Except for the rice.

One of the things recommended here was their imported Korean ice cream. What better way to dislodge the capsaicin from your taste receptors than by eating lots of casein, a component of milk. We stuffed ourselves with these cold delights- a late consolation- with some getting a melon ice drop (similar to Malaysia’s potong), a fish shaped candied azuki bean – vanilla ice cream sandwich, and a couple of cookies & cream sandwiches.

That dining experience was terrific despite the piquancy of the meal. For those wishing an authentic and quality Korean meal, Sodam is the place. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

It’s Sodam hot yet Sodam good.

VIDEO! I do not know who these are but I sure was amused by their chili-induced psychosis while they defile SODAM resto. Thank God we don't have a youtube version like theirs.

Hungry Pete's Burgers, Bacolod

There's nothing like a fat juicy hamburger to tide one's hunger, especially when one craves for some gourmet burger.  The great thing about Bacolod is that the locals take pride of their food- they cook well and serve it well. This is the case of Hungry Pete's.  Husband and wife tandem Peter and J.Anne Mirasol started venturing into the kiosk style of selling burgers a couple of years ago, and since then, there had been some changes and now, it's the star of the ground floor of Piazza Sorrento (corner of 13th & Lacson Sts.)

Their burgers are just as good as those pretentious "gourmet-daw" monstrosities in Manila where the prices just way way exorbitant. I mean exoticism doesn't mean excellence. It's that faux elan that's being peddled by crass people (read: noveau riche) of Imperial Manila that disgusts me. Wouldn't you be frustrated that your siopao-sized burger costs $15 just because some shmuck says it's from grass-fed Batangas-born "Angus" beef with the jus of red wine reduction sauce and a slice of WakaWaka cheese homemade by Laurent Gbago. It's a burger, not a degustation. Anton Diaz elaborates more the highs and lows of Manila's (wink! wink!) Best Burgers here.

Going back to Hungry Pete's, their burgers are great and heavy. See the menu for the price and compare it to the ones from Manila. The prices are fair considering the heft of its pure beef patty.  McDonald's quarter pounder on the other hand has that great great taste of 100% meat (of what creature, I do not know).  The only burger on this level that gave me pause is Crave Burger. Same style, almost the same taste, but w/o the soul.

Hungry Pete's burgers are juicy and beefy with their surfaces having that nice charred look and the inside nicely cooked. The buns are, sorry to say, meh. And the sidings like the pineapples and the bacon and the cheese, a welcome addition to it.

The taste is honest and not at all cloying or condescending.  Besides, with the beer stations nearby the kiosk, their burgers are great drinking food- makes the alcohol go slower.   Besides the booze-guzzlers and regular foodies who rave about Hungry Pete's, it's also a hit with Koreans and "people who play golf all day and watch their sugarcane grow."

With its taste and market already secured under its belt, I don't think another burger joint will be able to knock this one off.